Monday, July 19, 2010

Go To Church


Like most kids, the thought of going to a church is less than exciting , a monastery even more so. Alexandra was a perfect example. She is dragging around moaning about having to walk and typical kid stuff like “how far is it?” and other forms of bellyaching.   However, Tonya tells her we are gonna see the mummies, so she is up for a bit more walking…reluctantly.



It is amazing what you can find when you just poke around a bit. Tonya had told me of this church and always gets me confused with someone else, when she asks about my take on the mummies. I have never been here to this church before. I have never even noticed that it was closed for renovation! I have seen mummies before, but never Mexican ones and never here. I am fascinated by these old churches though, and their architecture is amazing. Tonya is jazzed that in spite of the drizzling weather that the church is open and we will get to finally see the mummies. We step inside and she asks if it is open. The ladies smile and reply, “Yes, please come in”


As soon as you walk in you can sense the history and the reverence. I am always amazed at how people have paid homage to God with their places of worship and art throughout our history. It is truly wonderful the lengths they go through to show respect and honor, especially to a being that so many says don’t exist. (Hmmm, how can a non-existent being inspire so much work and glories?) Ok, this is not my first old church or monastery, but it still is a beautiful one.

In the entry way


The entry way


This will be the first old church I have been in displaying old painting where the people speak in swirls though. Yes, the type stuff you see in art history books, I think this is the first time I have seen this ancient swirl speak in real life. I love it! Each painting with this language being spoken I could sit and stare at it for hours. I also love the way people looked back then. At least the way the painters painted them to look. Every one is so pensive, or dramatic, or glowing. Seems like a lot of people glowed a lot back then.

the famous 'swirly speak' (or upside down speak in this case)


I wonder what went on on all the stones lining the walkways of this place. It blows my mind to think of the lives and history that have helped to gloss the old stones over with wear and tear. I am in awe of the presence of history. Church or not, I find myself being reverent to all the lives that have been before me and the countless stories that stem from them all. So much has gone on before us…it is really breath taking if you think about it. So what, you have an iPhone. Think about what these people saw!






This is also the first time I have seen these monk’s quarters so close. Historic people are small. I have to hunch over to peer into the small chambers and look at their cramped tiny beds and cold stone floors. No closet space. Where did they keep their clothes? No lights. No electricity. No Facebook. Just simple wooden stands to sit and read your bible or write fancy writing with over the top calligraphy. These rooms are meant for studying and reading, and when that makes you tired, you lay on your tiny bed and sleep.

peering in to a monk's room


they wrote BIG music too!


These Monks had some nice sinks to rinse in, amazingly done in blue and white tiles.  So ornate and so tedious.  The courtyards are beautiful too.

in the back court yard


So, as we are walking around taking all this in, we stop for a second to ask the smiling old guard for directions. Tonya asks him if the mummies are still here and where they are. He happily obliges, and then dispels some lore to her in a lower tone. He is the only guy we have seen up here, but eh still speaks to Tonya as if he is telling her something that could cost his life. It turns out, maybe he is!


As Tonya smiles and leads the way, she says he was telling her that word in the ol’ church is…these are not the real mummies that belong here! Can you believe it! He says that the church sold the original mummies and then had buy replacement mummies so people like us and whiny kids would not be disappointed when they walk all the way down into the cold crypts to see empty coffins…or just some plaque apologizing for having to pawn off the real deals. What a shocking revelation. Tonya could have ruined our whole trip with this news. How do we know these aren’t Eskimos, or Russians, or Belgians? Who are these dead people and are we being gypped?


We hit the dark crypt and in the hallway, there is a hole in the floor, covered by glass and lit from below. What does this mean? There is no plaque to explain and no one around to ask. Just an illuminated hole through the stone so we can stare at dirt. In the room next to us though…



Mummies! They are all around, lying there and standing there. They are definitely mummies. I am fascinated by what they are dressed in. I can’t help but stare at the positions of their hands. One mummy has amazingly long toes! Did they bury him barefoot? Was he the town freak? Geez! Those are looooong boney toes! Looking at them all, one does wonder, “who are these people and why are they here?” There is some literature nearby and it says that even the church is not sure who they are. Possibly victims of Mexico’s revolution, some could have been patrons of the church and some maybe the elite of the time. (I hate to say it…but this does lend some credence to the old guard’s story up stairs)


Alexandra is creeped out. “Oh my God” is all she can say as she stares at each one. After another one is viewed, she says she is creeped out and wants to leave. I laugh at the fact that no matter how grossed out she is, she has to get a few snaps…you know, to show off the ol’ holiday pics to all the gang back home. She pulls out her camera and tries to get a ghoulish shot. As she does, she backs into a halogen light. Is it a boney finger straight form the depths of hell, poking and pulling her into the mummy party? Is it Old Scratch himself, inviting her down for a chat? She screams! This is the last straw. She is totally spooked and tells us it is time to go. As she turns to lead the way, she sees the light that she backed in to. It is not good enough though, as she says she is still sure that it is a sign. Get out!



I cackle at the incident and take a few more snaps myself. Alexandra wastes no time getting up the stairs and out. I think it is because she is spooked, but as she reaches the top and she’s the rain, she’s panting. She is scared-but what she really wants is a cigarette. WHAT! Maybe the whole thing was an act. Maybe she was too cool to look at rotting dead people and just wanted to show off and smoke. I suppose only she knows the truth.


After she puffs he cares away, Tonya has another brilliant idea. Let’s go eat! This cool torta place is just down the road, and we can sit there and eat until the rain stops. Alexandra makes a blank face. Imagine her horror. Not only did she stare death in the face, and look through some of the faces staring at her, but now she has to eat a gooey, drippy torta.


Sounds good to me!

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